Web-based interactive learning package
Transformation of Shallow-water Waves
The transformation of waves across the sea is a complex problem, including the processes of refraction, shoaling, breaking, energy dissipation by bottom friction, and reflection. As waves pass from deep water onto shallow water, the waves become highly nonlinear. Wave energy is dissipated due to breaking, but energy is also transferred to both higher and lower frequencies in the wave spectrum, and the spectral shape becomes flat.
Three Main Breaker Types
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Spilling breakers
Crest cascades down the shoreward face of the wave, producing a foamy water surface.
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Plunging breakers
Crest curls over the shoreward face of the wave and falls into the base of wave, creating a large splash.
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Surging breakers
The crest does not break, and the front face of the wave travels up the beach with minor breaking.
There are some useful links introducing the coastal system, including water wave, shoaling, different types of breaker.
Videos regarding Coastal System:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb8pgT39vE8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPgr-alTnQs
Plunging Breaking Wave
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iCYfEQ8osw
The animation of plunging breaker which is simulated by computer graphic system
Science of Big Waves - KQED QUEST
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP1QK0XCt1U
A real example regarding wave refraction and the formation of big waves